THE Daily News of May 4, 2024 carried a story in which Cottco board chairperson bemoaned the poor harvest of cotton this year, blaming the low rainfall that the country had during the last season.
Today, cotton dominates the fibre global market, worth around US$52.77 billion in exports which is why Cottco is worried if it does not get a bit of the cake.
Having said that about cotton fibre, it is important to note that because of the growing interest in hemp fibre and brand development, the hemp industry will expand with a predicted market worth around US$10.6 billion by next year. China is currently responsible for growing the majority of the global hemp crop.
For Zimbabwe to be part of the hemp global players, there is a need for everyone to be on board and to understand a number of things. I do not want to go much into the history of why cotton (Gossypium) overtook hemp cannabis sativa). Briefly, it is well documented that the very first American flag was made from cannabis sativa fibre. During the Second World War, the US even produced a propaganda movie called Hemp For Victory to encourage farmers to grow hemp, cannabis sativa.
How come then, cotton overtook hemp as a source of fabrics? One of the reasons was the US harsh ‘War on Drugs’ that put cannabis sativa plant products together with opium and cocaine in Schedule I narcotics. Hemp, industrial cannabis sativa is a cousin of marihuana, commonly known as cannabis (mbanje) and are the same plant.
Over the years, however, hemp plants have been sensationalised and demonised as being responsible for poor health and rebellion. Recently, it has been reported that the US Drug Enforcement Agency intends to reschedule cannabis to Schedule III where brufen, a pain killer, is. This is a medicine available over the counter in Zimbabwe
If the worry in Zimbabwe is about THC content in hemp, THC thresholds in crops are climate sensitive and the control of THC contents in cultivated plants can require a large set of agronomic techniques and competences. All of them can be established in Zimbabwe if the government is serious about the often touted, Education Philosophy 5.0 and 2030 strategy
The other reason why hemp was overtaken as a fibric was the development of synthetic fibres such as nylon and polyester from chemicals whose production contributes to a significant amount of greenhouse gases. These fabrics became mainstream in the 1950s as a result of aggressive marketing, and the controversy against hemp making, a way for mass produced, cheap clothing now known as fast fashion.
Today, globally, we are all worried about climate change and waste. Luckily hemp has started to come around as the need for alternative eco-friendly sources of fabric materials becomes apparent. Campaigners have worked hard to get cannabis sativa legalised and many countries, including Zimbabwe, are allowing its cultivation and opening the country for business in the textile industry.
Hemp cultivation is cheaper than cotton cultivation and is sensitive to lower soil pH than the optimum of pH 6-8 and also to drought in early crop stages. Water requirements, however, are fairly limited. Many studies have shown that hemp has, agronomically, a limited nutrient requirements compared to cotton.
Hemp is said to be relatively insensitive to pests or diseases and most sources agree that hemp can easily be grown without any application of pesticides unlike in cotton growing where the pesticides and herbicides used are extremely dangerous. Cotton or cotton-blend fabrics may be starched to help prevent pesticides from reaching the skin. Starch seems to trap pesticide so that both starch and pesticide wash away in the next washing.
As a result cotton accounts for 16 percent of global insecticide releases — more than any other single crop. Runoff of pesticides, fertilisers and minerals from cotton fields contaminate rivers, dams, wetlands and underground water. These pollutants have been reported to affect biodiversity directly by immediate toxicity or indirectly through long-term accumulation.
Whereas hemp is a soil phytoremediator like the sunflower. In essence cotton farming accounts for 4.7 percent of the world’s pesticide and 10 percent of its insecticides which puts humans and the environment at risk.
Speaking of human risks, at one point during the peak of the HIV/Aids epidemic when there was fear of needle prick by healthcare workers and no HIV/Aids testing counselling centres, cotton picking was thought to be one of the ways of HIV transmission was spreading. Dried bristles of the plant are sharp and could cut the fingers and wrists of the cotton picker if they did not wear good gloves and therefore could spread HIV.
This was not supported by any scientific evidence of course. Cotton continued to be grown and exported from Zimbabwe, not only as a source fibre but also food (mainly vegetable oil), animal feed, medicinal and household products. That is really nothing when compared to 20 000 uses of hemp which also include all the uses of cotton.
The diversity of products that can be made using various parts of the hemp plant, and the differences in the degree of sophistication of their respective production processes are potentially attractive features. Moreover, hemp cultivation could be further monetized by integrating some carbon compensation schemes on a voluntary basis. Diversity in final uses also implies flexibility in setting up a sectoral policy framework as part of the Zimbabwe Hemp Industrial Policy.
It is no wonder, therefore, that big pocketed international companies like Pepsco, BAT, Philip Morris, Big Pharma, Automotive (Ford, Haley Davidson) and construction companies are investing in hemp now that laws are changing globally. There is no way that cotton can beat hemp if the Cottco board exercises its mind critically.
If Zimbabwe is really open for business these companies should be encouraged to set up shops in Zimbabwe while at the same adopting the UN (2018) declaration that binds countries to “respect and protect rural needs,” aiming to “incentivize rural policies that include cannabis in their development strategies.”. Unfortunately and currently the implicit policies seem to favour the privileged few with little ability to critically think about cotton versus hemp.
Norman Z Nyazema is a cannabis sativa advocate.